Fashion school gives new start to ‘fleeing’ young women in Arua

When war broke out in South Sudan in 2016, Mary Juru’s parents started to wonder about the future of their daughter.

Much as the family managed to flee to Uganda for safety, they feared that education for their then fifteen-year-old child, whom conflict had pushed out of school, would be cut short.

When the family settled in the Northwestern district of Arua, Juru was enrolled in a tailoring school to delve into the fashion craft. 

“Learning these skills gives me hope for a better future,” says Juru. “With what I learn here, even when I go back home, it’s something I can take to my community in South Sudan and make money,” she adds. 

The fashion school is run by Ronnie Ndema, himself a tailor. Ndema established the school to tap into the fashion potential of the town because of its multicultural and multinational population. 

“The fabric itself doesn’t matter. However, the selling point of our prints here is the styles we employ in making them. They are based on different cultures,” explains Ndema.

For a long time, Arua has been a melting point of cultures and this has manifested in ways of dressing. According to locals here, their neighbors, from the Democratic Republic of Congo, have exported their floral and flamboyant dressing vibe into the town. 

“Everyone in Arua owns a Kitenge, you can take a walk in our streets or go to a church on Sunday or Mosque, you shall see. That’s what the Congolese have done to us,” says Simon Onziga, a journalist with local FM station, Radio Pacis. 

The influence of Congolese fashion on the Kitenge industry in Arua is undeniable. 

The Congolese with their bold, vibrant styles and the ability to blend traditional African designs with contemporary trends has made the Kitengi highly sought after and a lucrative business idea. 

Joyce Kamure, a seasoned wholesaler who supplies Kitenge materials to Ndema’s fashion school, has been in the business for over 20 years. 

Kamure is one of the many entrepreneurs who have capitalized on the growing demand for Kitenge in Arua.

“We often tell our customers that the materials come from Congo because they trust the quality more,” Kamure says. 

In recent years, new styles have emerged, transforming the traditional Kitengi skirt and blouse into more modern, free-flowing garments. 

These new styles have been particularly popular among younger generations, who are looking for ways to express their cultural heritage while also embracing contemporary fashion trends. 

Kamure notes that these new styles were largely influenced by Congolese fashion, which has always been at the forefront of innovation in African attire.

“The Congolese were the first to popularize Kitengi, and their influence is still very much present in the styles we see today,” she said.

The migration of Kitengi fashion from Congo and South Sudan to Uganda has had significant economic implications, particularly in north western region.

The demand for Kitengi has created numerous business opportunities, from the production and sale of the fabric to the training and employment of tailors and fashion designers.

For Ndema, his fashion school is focusing on the dressing as a form of livelihood and integration for the growing refugee community. 

Started in 2015, the school has enrolled and impact hundreds of young women especially refugees who flee conflict from neighboring Eastern Democratic Republic of Congo and South Sudan.  

“They have spread the word about the skills they have acquired, encouraging others to come to Arua to learn,” he adds.

It is from the many beneficiaries that Juru family learned about the training school and enrolled her in 2022.

“I have registered more South Sudanese than Congolese most especially during war outbreak in South Sudan,” Ndema said 

Ndema’s fashion school has become a beacon of hope for many young South Sudanese girls who have migrated to Arua, often fleeing political instability and seeking better opportunities. 

The school offers these girls a chance to acquire valuable tailoring skills that they can use to improve their livelihoods. 

The ripple effect of this training is profound. Not only does it provide employment opportunities for the girls, but it also helps to uplift their communities. 

Moreover, the success of these women in their communities encourages others to seek similar opportunities, creating a continuous cycle of empowerment and economic development.

As Kitengi continues to evolve and adapt to the changing fashion landscape, it will remain a symbol of African pride, identity, and tradition. 

Whether worn at a wedding, a celebration, or simply as a statement of cultural heritage, Kitengi is more than just a fabric, it is a thread that connects us all.